LS VTEC
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Ah yes, the Frankenstien LS/VTEC, for the longest time I have wanted to do one of these but never have found decent prices. But recently I found a B18b longblock for $325 and got a B18C GSR Head from work for free. Now everyone knows that this motor can produce some good torque numbers, but has a shitty rod stroke ratio for spinning 8500rpms all day long. Personally I dont give a fuck all about that crap. My motors are never in the car for longer than 20,000 miles anyways, so it doesnt matter about "Honda Longevity". This will be my FIRST B-series engine in any of my CRX's. I am doing this all Low-budget and trying to take any shortcuts I can. My friends who have lots of extra B-series Parts have been helping me out, with basic things like Distributor/Alternator/Flywheel etc.
The Plan was to make this engine for an All motor setup, and using it for my daily driver (for Road Racing) But after checking a few sites and actually seeing what kind of compression ratio this thing is going to put out (9.8) it will work just great for a daily driver Turbo setup as well! My goal is to have around 200hp All motor and around 260hp with a custom turbo setup.
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![ls_vtec_head_1_P.jpg]()
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First things is getting the head prepped for the Vtec install, We used a Ridge Remer to enlarge the down pin alignment holes for the B18b block.
About 1/2 inch back from where the remer is sitting, is where ESR welded the oil feed hole, I then had the Head resurfaced at a local machine shop.
A Stock B18b headgasket is being used.
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![ls_vtec_intake-tb_P.jpg]()
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Using a Bored GSR Throttle Body by Proflow Design. Went from 60mm To 64mm. The intake Manifold is a JG EdleBrock Victor X manifold for the GSR Head. (we got a special deal on this one, ;) Thanks Beau)
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![ls_vtec_head_2_P.jpg]()
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GSR P72 Head. I got this head at work, by doing an engine swap. It had 2 bent valves that I replaced. The ports have been slightly worked.
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![ls_vtec_flywheel_P.jpg]()
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B16a Flywheel, I took it to get resurfaced at a local machine shop, and asked if they could shave the backside to scrape a few pounds off, he quoted me 75 bucks! I said fuck that, so me and Mike G took it to my work and did it ourselves on the Brake Lathe Machine, we got 4lbs off From 18 to 14lbs. Not to bad for 1hr of labor.
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![ls_vtec_motor-mounts_P.jpg]()
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These are the motor mounts I am using, a guy who is somewhat local to me, builds these in his garage. Very nice quailty as well. Polyuarthane inserts, with a gunmetal powdercoated finish.
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![ls_vtec_engine_1_P.jpg]()
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After several months of trying to find a decent tranny, I finally found a USDM YS1 Integra Transmission. Cable B-series transmissions are incredibly hard to find! I was so fucking excited once I got it, I had to give it the JB Polishing treatment.
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![ls_vtec_engine-bay_1_P.jpg]()
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Once the old engine is removed, you will have to do some chasis prep work. First remove the stock front cross member and beat down the front mount, or completely cut it off so it doesnt get in the way of the transmission.
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![ls_vtec_engine-bay_2_P.jpg]()
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Get a big sledge hammer, or use an air impact hammer to put a nice size dent in the frame rail on the LH side of the car, this is clearence for the alternator.
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![ls_vtec_engine-bay_3_P.jpg]()
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Once the dent is made, put a quick coat of paint on it, so it doesnt look ghetto, and wont rust.
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![ls_vtec_engine-bay_4_P.jpg]()
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This is the bitch mount, its the rear mount for the transmission. You have to beat the lip down so it fits flush. Also the back bolt is somewhat difficult to get off when using the stock mount.
If your engine/tranny combo did not come with a rear transmission bracket you will need to get one from a manual 90-93 integra 5-speed.
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![ls_vtec_engine_2_P.jpg]()
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Once all the chasis work is done, you can install the motor, this is a very easy way to do motor swaps if you have access to a hoist. Just remove the front cross member and drop the car down onto the engine. Its a piece of cake!
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![ls_vtec_linkage_P.jpg]()
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Beau making up some custom shiftlinkage. I highly recommend just buying the Hasport kit, its a whole hell of alot easier. It took nearly 2 hours to rig the stock linkage to work. We had to add in a small section, (threaded rod). If you want to go low budget, use the 90-93 linkage first, then modify that.
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![ls_vtec_engine_3_P.jpg]()
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Finally done! Overall, it was a pretty easy swap to do, and it runs very well. We first used the car with stock exhaust and it would hardly move. I dropped the exhaust all the way off to make sure it was running right, and it hauled ass. I had no other choice but to install the big bad boy Rice/Race 3 inch exhaust setup on the car. It sounds like complete ass, but it made 175.4hp to the wheels on the dyno (peak at 8200rpms) This is currently my daily driver, and will be turbocharged very soon!
NOTES:
- Wiring was very simple on this setup, since we are using the Zdyne gold secu, which uses a 1 wire setup for vtec. I am running a custom PWO program with 12% more fuel, and a custom timing map.
- The stock harness works just fine for this setup, you will need to use your stock D16 injectors when switching to this setup, (or any other hold & peak style injector) you cannot use the OBD1 or OBD2 injectors with the Resistor box. (it will have to be removed)
- Alot of people have asked me how I like my JG intake, honestly I don't have anything to compare it with, so I really dont know how well it performs. But the dyno graphs that JG has posted, looks very nice.
- What wires are those?! They are Nology Hot wires, and the only reason I got them, is because I found 3 of them behind a import shop in the garbage :P I ordered the 4th wire and was good to go!
- Weight? The weight of the B-series is somewhat noticeable, but not that big of an issue, especially if you have relocated your battery to the back.
- Axles, all the axle info you need is in the tech section of Hasport webpage. I am using a 95 GSR Intermediate shaft with 94 GSR axles (non-abs) with the dust seal removed. It works perfect.
- Clearence issues? The oil pan does hang a bit low, but its not a problem, since my car is not slammed. Also the hood does hit the valve cover slightly. It is an easy fix, to modify the unercarage of the hood.
- Vibrations? This is very normal with any use of polyurathane mounts/inserts, this makes the car vibrate/shake/hum in the car, It is NORMAL!
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