The map uses 3 wires one is hot one is ground and one is signal. So one wire should have 5 volts constant key on. If you do not have 5 volts you have an open or short to ground in the hot wire.

Usually the middle one is the signal check it key on engine off and on. The middle wire should change voltage because you have vac engine on and no vac engine off.
The ground last but not least should have next to 0 volts. If it has 5 you have an open in the ground wire.

Do all this with everything plugged in and back probe the connection to the map I just use a paper clip or safety pin or sowing needle.

You can also get the pin outs from the ecm to map and check for continuity from ecm to map. Do this map and ecm unplugged www.hondatech.info downloads get the etm for your car and look at pgmfi section. You can find and open or short to ground with this. I hear If you are testing with ohms you some times can hurt the ecm so unplug it.

hope I helped with the code 3 at least If its a wiring problem. If you can datalog you can look at your map input and see what the hell its doing. If you down load the service manual look at dtc 3 in the fuel section it has a little map like it will say at 12 inches of vac you will have 3 volts whatever. I hear a stock map will read about 11 psi.

Im not very good at the tuning part but trying to help at least.

 

Are you sure you even added boost to your map? Injector sizing and offset adjusted?

 

thank you fuse, i will check tomorrow! I will report back with findings. The map isn't something we built, its a known good dyno tuned map on an identical combo to mine (its called BEERBONGSKICKASS) probably heard of it. wide open throttle past about 3pounds its is hella fun! just the part throttle for cuising is a bitch because of the CEL obviously and how it effects running in vacuum. and flipping hte key on the highway is getting lame especially after putting 2000 km on in a weekend.

 

Wat?

Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor.

I would hope someone with your grasp of english isn't building them.

 

continue trying to lick your own *** waffles,

i think u know what a fuel map is. and ironicaly it is the manifold absolute pressure sensor that is acting up and sending a CEL code.

just got a new battery for my voltmeter, going to have a look in a bit

 

Here's what i've found

as the wires lay out on the map sensor

---------- yellow w/ stripe = constant 5 volts
---------- green w/ stripe = ground
---------- solid white = signal

at idle, between the ground and signal i get almost a perfect 1.0 volt cold (~23in of vac), and about 0.88v warm (20in of vac)

if i snap the throttle i can get about 2.5v or slightly higher between ground and signal. This is no load and 0in of vaccum.







i also discovered that if you ground the constant 5v it will arm the fuel pump. this kills the motor if running.

 

UPDATE


apparently the key to finding my problem was to start doubting those i trust; friends if you will....

cracked open my ecu after doing a bit of digging, and discovered that the following positions were not connected

R54
J1
C51
C52
74 HC373

so apparently I didn't get all of the pieces needed for chipping (any actually).

Dammit time to talk to Xenocron

 

http://www.phearable.net/videos/socketing.wmv
http://www.phearable.net/images/ecusocketingins.gif

 

It was working good before when I was running NA. I guess it was running as a P06 with vtec but since it was missing all the pieces for the chip to work, it didn't matter what was on the chip. Makes sense why it still has a fuel cut at 0.3psi. and why it goes into limp mode sometimes when in boost.