His set has extensive track time invested.

 

i was just checking them out they look real good is the price listed shipped or no

 

https://www163.safesecureweb.com/lsd...uspension.aspx


JP

 

I would chime in, but hey, this is how I make money! J/K

Suspension Geometry has to be kept inline otherwise binding can occur, which you don't want. Search around, H-T has a few discussion thread and there was one here also with some diagrams. I would post up measurements but at this point now I work off jigs that are the front end of cars cut off!

As for where it bolts to the LCA, Go to one of the factory support bolts, NOT the Strut Tower bolt like some do, this is a big no no as the rubber bushing will tear out under the load.

92-00 T-Bars are quite a bit easier then 88-91 as they do replace a factory support, so extra provisions must be taken to use the factory mounting points as well as make more room and traction.

 

I can vouch for these traction bars that Josh makes^^^

Mine withstood a beating last year and eliminated wheel hop.

 

And botteming out at 60kph and saved your oil pan!

 

This is true, infact it saved the whole tranny from being ripped out of the frame. and the best part is the traction bar held up and I'm still using it.

 

Well, I started work on the traction bars today and next week I'll have the piping. I was only able to find 1 Heim Joint so I have to run in town and grab the reverse. I also have to take the ears off the car and lay them on my sheet metal I cut and make the marks to drill the holes. However, after looking at your all designs you aren't keeping the pipe as CLOSE to the bolts as you can. I figured you would. Any way, I also started welding today and so it looks I might be the one welding up these bad boys. I'll keep you all posted, but for now it's food, shower, and getting those ears off then finding Heim Joints. Oh yea, and I can PROBABLY get 1/4" steel for the main frame bracket, but I have 3/16" and it looks fine. Mind you I'm using some quality material.

Josh, thanks for chiming in pimp! As for the bolting LCA issue, where exactly can I bolt it too? ANY structural area?


JP

 

Q#1: Not to sure what you mean? Do you mean the Radius Rod that goes to the LCA. This is what I meant by proper geomtry. Take a look at the competions webiste *Cough, Cough* Full-Race, The have a Half Decent, but poorly researched Tech Right up. Believe their Geometry Stuff, but not their structural!!

Q#2. There is 3 bolts on you LCA other then the mount to the chassis and the ball joint. One is to the Strut tower, DON"T USE THIS. The other 2 go to the factory LCA Support behind the LCA. Use the outer most one.

 

The reason the pipe is so low on those setups is that you need the mounting point for the trailing arms on the traction bar to be exactly inline with the pivot point on the lower suspension arm. If its not inline then anytime the wheel moves up or down it will bind which is very very bad.