****** I'm Soooooo sorry this is so long of a post but I could really use some help right now I broke everything into pieces to make it easier to read. I wrote this very tired and half a sleep so bare with me *****

O.K. I have a 91' Civic HB I dropped in a B16a in it and something wierd is happening. Now first this is the first problem I've every had and I've done swaps and turbo set-ups before and never had a problem so I really stuck right now and could use some help. I swapped in a Turbo ZC motor before this one but the ZC motor blew up. The ZC blew up because half of it was from turboing it and I dogged the **** oiut of it and I dropped a valve in the #4 piston. Anyway here's my problem well when I first dropped in my B16 ( I have a OBD 1 B16 that I converted to OBD 0 and running a PR3 ECU I believe and I know there's nothing wrong with the convertion from OBD 1 to OBD 0 and I converted EVERYTHING on that motor to obd 0 )So my car still is OBD 0.

I just watned a newer B16 and this B16 I found at my local JDM importer it had a cable "LSD" YS1 trans but was OBD 1. So I liked it and it looke clean as hell so I was friends with the owner and just asked that I'll buy this motor but I want a OBD 0 Dizzy and injectors I'll take care of everything else so thats that story.

Well I'm driving the car right after I'm done the swap and all of sudden the car starts missing and hesitating like crazying. BUT the car/ECU would NOT throw any CEL's. Well I found out since my cars is a DX model that when your re-wire the car from DPFI to MPFI that the stock DX DPFI TPS sensor suppossely read backwards from a normal Si/MPFi TPS sensors so supposely when you do the swap and convertion along with all the wiring you have to switch the two outside TPS wires with one another and the middle wire is left alone.

So I switched the two outside TPS wires around and the car stops missing/misfiring/etc. anymore.... only one problem when I hook a volt meter up to it the meter to cehck to make sure the TPS angle was right the TPS's voltage it was putting out read in negetive volts. If I switch the two wires back like they were before the volt meter reads the voltage in positive volts but the car starts to run like crap and misses/hesistates/etc. again and again when try to drive it.

So for now I've been running it with the two wires switched and the cars drive fine and has b een for the last couple of months. I had a smuliar problem with my ZC w ith this missing/hesistation problem but I didn't know about the switching of the wires, I never did switch them but the motor didn't last long enough for me to figure out if it was the same problem cause like I said it was turbo'd and then blew up.

Well I was told like I said you have to switch the two wires around when converting from DPFI to MPFI. Here's the big problem I'm turboing my now B16 very soon ( I've done alot better job this time. I made my own turbo kit again. my old turbo kit for my ZC was half-a$$ed junkyard set-up.

This time I'm using all very very decent and well know companies/products, and tuning tools such as Tail, Greddy, Walbro, HKS, etc. My Wide band O2 sensor kit that is one of the last things I need to get cause if I had it I could see how it's running my Autometer A/F gauge says rich but we all know about Autometer A/F gauge's but luckly I got a real A/F ratio reader this time.

Well I'm running a AFC as one of the things I'll be using to dyno tune my turbo set-up well I wired up my AFC today and I've wired tons of AFC's in the past and I feel that I'm very good with tuning and using them but now HERE'S the problem cause the wires are switched at the TPS and like I said it's putting out negetive voltage so in turn my TPS reading on my AFC at idle not touching the gas says 100% and at full throttle when driving 0% when it should be the other way around right my ?

My AFC should be saying 0% at idle and 100% at WOT ( wide open throttle ) am I right ? Well when I change the wires on my TPS back to stock so the AFC reads right going from 0-100 andnot vise versa and of course the car starts hesitating and missing when I try to give it gas down the road or just plain driving. SOMEONE please tell me whats wrong or what am I doing wrong? am I doing something wrong ? Did I wire something wrong when I re-wired for MPFI and if so what ? I've tried swaping out TPS's I have three TPS just sitting in my car and neither one changes anything when I swap them. Can someone give me some pointers or help me PLEASE.

Also what's the voltage reading the TPS is suppose to be set at at idle and WOT throttle just curious ? If anyone knows the answers to my problem and can give it to me you are thr frickin man and I thank all that post here for helping me.

Also I just checked my AFC at sensor check mode my thrt. say 4.2 volts at idle and then when at WOT it goes to 0.21volts. it the TPS adjusted and set right ?


I've never questioned any work I've ever done but this problem is kicking my butt on my car. THANKS amillion to anyone that reads this and help meAlso here's a update someone on another forum suggested turning the TPS the other direction and seeing if that helps kind of what the HM ITB's had to do when the TPS was hitting the M/C. I have another EF HB with a ZC in it I'm going to check the wiring on that tomorrow and see what voltage readings I get but any ideas or if you know exactly was my problem is I could really use it right now.

 

no its all wrong..

Closed throttle = 0.4v - 0.5v
WOT = about 4.5v

I would trace the wires to the ecu and make sure they are not backwards at the ecu as well.